Northern Peru (re-edit)

Needless to say the last crossing was a bit remote. Did not figure in my guide book and my map was a hand sketch. The main reason for going this way was it sounded interesting. I was quite surprised that it led me to somewhere that was not only beutiful but was full of pre-inca remains.

I used Chachapoyas as base to explore. I gather it is not on the tourist trail, but is surrounded by some amazing ancient hill fortresses and burial sites wedged high up inaccessible cliffs.

Went on an organised four day trek, broad snaking river valleys, horse riding through the jungled mountains, trekking on ancient inca paths through misty cloud forests. The downside was we had to live like the locals. The only shower I had was in a little hamlet next to the "main street", with the locals laughing at the gringo trying to balance on a plank of wood under the icy stream water. Oh I kept my shorts on in case you were wondering.

The food was interesting.I cant believe I was not ill I cant fully describe the kitchens, wooden shacks half burnt down from the open fire. Black pots, mud floors, dirt, dogs and chickens everywhere. The food was mainly rice and sweetcorn, but once had a chickens head in my soup! Ever eaten stuff and tried not to let it touch your tongue. One place as we were trying to eat there was an odd loud banging come chopping sound and from round the corner a bloke walks out with a freshly severed cows head. I tried to get a photo but the smell made me gag.

In a remote forest hamlet watched a game of football. Though the pre-match prep was puffing on fags, taking swigs from the local fire water and stuffing their cheeks with coca leaves. I have never seen a football player shove his pockets with coca leaves before running on to the pitch before.

The region was very beautiful. The valleys had not a sign of human life, no roads, houses, lights, power lines. In the four days we never had electricity. The night sky was perfectly black not even a distant glow of humanity. The people welcomed us with smiles and no outstretched hands.

Decided against journeying to the Amazon, bitten enough by mozzies, took the opposite direction to Tujillo. A pretty town surrounded by archeological sites, huge mud brick pyramids and forgotten cities in the desert. Bleak scenery, endless desert and dunes, mountains rising in the background and then this massive city. All built with mud bricks, walls towering 7m high in places, intricate designs and motifs cut into the mud.