Galapagos

This trip did not start well. I caught a 'ferry' between the islands to get to the good dive sites. Of the two engines on the little boat the one that sounded okay died, leaving one which sounded like a diesel, except it wasnt. There was a fair swell, plenty of blue smoke from the engine, a persistant howl from the engine warning system, someone throwing up. The three hour journey across the open ocean with no land in sight, turned into six.

Spent the first week doing some fun diving from day boats. I was amazingly lucky in diving right on top of a 6m whale shark. Went to Gordon Rocks and saw hammerhead sharks, though they were pretty skittish. This is the mouth of an offshore volcano. I knew something was up when the fish started going backwards up towards the surface. I had to grab hold and walk across the rocks with my hands feet directly above my head. In fact it was very odd, as I tried to navigate a passage on my hands my body was frequently twirled through 180 degrees, up, down, left, right, etc. That bit was not entirely fun as the force of the water was making my mask flood and one of my regulators purge. While all the time watching the fish blast past you in effort to determine where the various currents were going.

Unfortunately I did not have any gloves and after this narrow passage I was confused why my fingers were puffing out black smoke. I forgot at this depth the colour red goes black and the smoke was a bit like when you first put a teabag into hot water and watch the dark stain swirl around the cup.

The sealions were great fun to dive with, much more playfull than British ones. Except once you start they dont want to stop. Having sealions bounce off your head as you are trying to drag yourself against the current is a little annoying.

The second week I took a cruise around the islands on a Catamaran. This was a daily cycle of overeating, snorkling, walking along empty beaches and dramatic volcanic rocks. The wildlife has no fear so I could take loads of close up photos. Occasionally the iguanas would blow snot at you if you got too close. Went snorkling with penguins, how good is that, watch them hunting a shoal of fish, fantastic. Water was cold though, 23 degrees.

Did so many things, walked down through ancient lava tubes hidden uderground, big enough to drive a bus down, went mountain biking down the side of a volcano. Watched dolphins play in the bow wake, stroked a baby seal, watched giant gay tortoise sex. You know the usual everyday stuff.

Avenue of the volcanoes

Been climbing the local mountains around Quito, slowly building up acclimatization.

Pasochoa, 4200m
This was a green hill with a rocky crag as a summit, could have been the Peak District. It felt foolish struggling through a meadow of flowers while barely being able to hold a conversation. Slowing my pace was the only way to proceed without gasping for air. The sky was completely clear and on summiting we were ringed by a range of volcanoes. Below us two condors circled, while an eagle picked up a thermal and until it was a speck above our heads.

Guagua Pichincha, 4800m
A long more demanding hike up an active volcano. The approach was very pretty, considering the harshness of the environment, the slopes were filled with flowers. Going up the steady incline was fine, but when it steepened my heart really started to work due to the altitude. The last one hundred meters was over loose shale and sand, moving too quickly or energetically made me light headed enough to believe I could black out. The strong wind brought wafts of bad egg smells up from the volcano along thick clouds that temporarily obscured our path.

Ilinizas Norte, 5126m
At last a real mountain. Bought a down jacket as the icy wind was strengthening and an overnight stay in a mountain hut was required. My equipment included: thermals top and bottom, over trousers, harness, gloves and mittens worn together, helmet, harness, coat and rope. There was snow on the mountain, but it was not thick enough for crampons. Ice covered the rocks making them slippery. The mountain hut perfectly defined the word dank; smelly, damp, moisture running down the walls, green mold, no heating and bitterly, bitterly cold. Just four walls and a stove. Inviting as sleeping in a public toilet. We slept fully dressed including our hats. We left an hour before sun rise to ensure the snow was frozen for safe footwork. It should not have been difficult but the wind was intense. At the Pass of Death we had to crawl on all fours to avoid being blown off our feet. The rock was rotten, fragmented and often surrounded by loose sand. On the way down the sun made the ice melt loosing a fist sized rock which bounced off my rucksack.

Cotopaxi, 5900m
This can only be described as brutal. Same kit as before but with ice axe, mountain boots and crampons. The mountain is a perfect cone standing amongst bare barren dusty tundra. Tough hike up to the refuge with all our food and water as again we would be sleeping at altitude. The hut was much better equipped but still no heating and this was at 4800m. Its weird sleeping this high, eating saps all your strength and you wake often struggling for breath.
We left at 1am again to ensure solid ground. The climb was a relentless face at 45 degrees for hours on end. No shelter. Kick right foot in, kick left, move up, ice axe in, the head torch illuminating just a small patch of snow immediately in front of you. To rest, sink the axe shaft deep and hang there as spin drift stings your eyes. The wind continues to strengthen, viciously cold, the guide quickens our pace in an effort to beat the weather. My heart rate is at max, the frozen air tears at my lungs. I am left on all fours at times, lungs screaming for air. The ground occasionally opens up with a gaping black mouth, occasionally the axe disappears into the ground finding nothing but air behind the snow. I have to give in, totally devastated, but I had to reserve some strength for the route back. The wind makes summiting suicidal,no one attempts the last 200m. Its just not worth it.

Did not take any photos. Just stopping to drink water was an effort, to stop, secure your self, carefully remove mittens, struggle to retrieve water bottle, just to have a sip and put it back again. Could not leave it handy otherwise it would freeze.